Monday, June 13, 2011

Bubba Chinos

Located in a bright yellow building at the corner of the Colfax and Franklin, Bubba Chinos prow-like façade beckons diners onto its cozy patio. Which, if you eat there, you will have to cross as Bubba Chinos only has window service and outdoor seating, at least for the near future.

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As noted in the Westword review, Bubba Chinos serves up a a “chicano cuisine”. A mashup of Mexican meets American, perfected over the course of generations. The menu focuses on burritos, which can then be customized further, but tacos, tostadas, Mexican hamburgers also make an appearance.

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Table space is scarce, so be prepared to mill about, listen for your order number to be called and try to be casual as you wait for a table to lunge at the moments fellow diners push their chairs back. The pick up window dishes out food in foil or styrofoam, whether or not you dine in or out.

The ground beef tostada was a traditional combination of iceberg lettuce, cheese and beef atop a tortilla. Serviceable? Yes. Memorable? No.

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The egg and chorizo burrito, smothered in green chile, brought some heat to the table. The thick green chile lit up in your mouth with a warmth that was noticeable, maybe even putting a little sweat on your scalp, but not torturous. If on backside of a drunken night out this burrito, given its heft and the green chile forcing you to down water, would go along away to mitigating the impending hangover.

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Having sat vacant for years, it is an exciting step in the evolution of Colfax Avenue to see this site active. The good food, priced reasonably, will hopefully have the staying power so sling chicano cuisine for years to come.